Chez Guillotine is a culinary phenomenon. It’s been the Rage of the Bay from the moment it opened its doors three short weeks ago. Think Louis XIV dining with Victor Hugo amidst a butchershop production of Cirque de Soleil. That’s Chez Guillotine. This 18th Century retro establishment has already garnered rave reviews in publications ranging from the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle and Gourmet Magazine, to more esoteric pubs like Vegetarian Times and Porky’s Gazette. CG’s menu is diverse, curiously arcane and ridiculously expensive. Judging from the lines outside, when you’re hot, you charge.
Reservations are de riguer. Even so, we asceded to implied blackmail by the maitre de. Mikki discreetly slipped him a twenty. We were finally shown to our table, an hour later than promised. They say you get what you pay for. That night at Chez Guillotine we most certainly did.
Curiously, there are two menus. One is vegetarian. It offers up such toothsome fare as Bolivian spaghetti thistle in camphor stock, and Fuerte avocado roast on lightly poached tundra grass.
My daughter, Mikki, ordered the multi-grain mock-sashimi appetizer, a nori seaweed salad with caper nut-cream dressing, radish potage, and, for her entee she chose grilled chanterelles mutard in an Everclear reduction with scallions over jasmine rice.
Our waiter seemed pleased with her choices, but acted funny when Pete and I asked to see the meat offerings. He snuffed and quickly walked away, returning with two greasy blood-stained menus from which rose such a vile malodor that it almost made me wretch. I handed mine right back.
“I’ll have what she’s having.”
But my dad, Pete, wasn’t the least bit put off. He doesn’t read French so he simply pointed to one from each section. As the waiter made off I asked Mikki what the deal was.
“Chez Guillotine was founded by a community off rabid animal rights activists. I was told they were having trouble with a project funding drive. One night at an on-line newsletter party someone jokingly suggested they open a restaurant serving the finest food, with a twist. You’ll see.”
I excused myself and headed to the men’s room. Strange noises bled through the walls–squeals, grunts and hrrrumphs. By the time I returned to our table Pete was guzzling his first Bloody Bull.
“Not bad, ‘ said Pete, launching into another swig, ‘but it’s the goddamndest tasting…”
“It’s made from fermented ox blood.” Mikki explained.
“Not bad,’ Pete countered, studying the goblet, ‘not half bad!” He drained it, motioning the waiter for another. For someone raised on blood sausage, steak tartar and hoospeneena, Pete is one hard vegetarian sell.
Appetizers were soon placed before Mikki and me. While our service was prompt and efficient Pete inquired where his food might be. He was informed that vegetarians always eat first at Chez Guillotine, so as to pique the carnivore palate. Pete just shrugged and ordered another drink.
“Make it a double.”
I felt a tad uneasy when, once we’d finished our grazing, plates removed, the waiter ceremoniously fitted Pete with a butcher’s apron.
“Oh boy-oh-boy-oh-boy–chow time!”
If my observations are correct no one in the entire hall was presently dining on meat. Once Pete was draped in his apron a murmur arose, and all heads turned, every eye fixed upon our table. Sure enough, I experienced all-too familiar pangs of embarrassment. Since childhood I’d be scanning for rocks to hide under whenever in the public company of my father, Pete. And I knew that Pete was eating the attention up.
When his appetizer finally arrived it proved to be a spectacular presentation on a silver service. Two slimy reddish-grey egg-shaped things, both road-mapped with blood vessels, lay on a bed of artistically arrayed vegetation. Pete rubbed his hands together, wiping saliva from his mouth. The chef speared one of the objects with satanic glee, placing it on his cutting board, then sharpened his knife before cutting paper-thin slices of meat.
“What the hell are they?” I whispered to Mikki.
“Pickled goat testicles.”
Everyone in the room seemed to share the same sardonic grin. I suppose they figured they knew what would happen once Pete bit in. The chef deftly arranged testicle slices along with pumpernickel toast wedges and preserved lemon-stuffed Algerian olives. All fell anxiously silent. Pete contemplated this offering. He piled a dozen slices on the rye, chewed thoughtfully, all the while contorting his face as though he were set to puke–and finally chased it all quickly down with yet another Bloody Bull. Suddenly, he threw his arms out. Laughter erupted from the attendant diners.
“A veritable gourmet’s delight!“, Pete enthused. “My compliments to the chef!”
However, his chef seemed anything but pleased.
“The stuff’s vile,” Mikki whispered. “How can he say that?”
“Just wait’, I replied, ‘just you wait.”
Judging from the many drained faces we were witness to the Bosch-incarnate scene here at Chez Guillotine. Our chef stood entranced, his mouth a fissure.
“Tell ya what, my good man,” said Pete, having already polished off both balls, pitching a final olive in the air, fielding it in his maw, “hows ’bout we dispense wid the other stuff an’ get right down to business? Bring on the main course!”
The gauntlet laid down, ante raised, gloves off–war had been engaged. And Pete hadn’t a clue.
As the chef retreated kitchenward, muttering and shaking his head, Pete turned, surveying the stunned dining mob, then turned back brightly to Mikki and me, whispering conspiratorially, “Good grub, and lots of promising sales victims!”
When the kitchen door once again swung open there emerged bus persons heaving before and straining shoulders behind a creaking medieval cart, within which bounced a madcap litter of squealing piglets. Their proud mama was sprawled upon a mountain of hay, sucked silly by her pink offspring. The chef, now recomposed, in addressing Pete, gestured to the pen.
“Please choose, sir.”
I guess this was meant to be a takeoff on the lobsters in the tank motif, though rather too crude and obvious. Anyway, it didn’t phase Pete.
“Well, the big one is a little too much after that wonderful appetizer, but lemme t’ink here fer a minute.” Pete scratched up some contemplative dandruff. The chef irritably brushed his white jacket. “Tell ya what.” Pete reached into the pen, grabbed a chubby suck-faced porker, and, holding it up for close inspection, proclaimed, “He’s a real cutie. I’ll eat him.”
The philosophy behind Chez Guillotine assumes that we Americans have so distanced ourselves from the brutal gore of meat processing, what, with cellophane, styrofoam and all, that once face-to-face with the ghastly process we will immediately convert to pure, clean vegetarianism.
It’s a marvelous theory.
The cart creaked back to the kitchen. Pete held the piglet on his lap, stroking and cooing it. Perhaps figuring he’d done his part Pete offered up the little fella, expecting the chef be off to roast it. But the chef just stood there before us, arms crossed, smiling maniacally. It finally dawned on me.
Chez Guillotine.
Sure enough–out rolls the red carpet, followed by the genuine article, though perhaps a smidgen downsized from the original.
A hooded executioner walked solemnly to the rear. I knew this little game would go no further. Pete would relent, if only because, in his own pig-headed obstinance, he had to identify with this helpless little creature.
I was wrong. Pete reveled in the spotlight, loved the grandeur and lusted every attention.
Besides, he was still awfully hungry.
“Perhaps,’ the chef addressed Pete, ‘you’d care to do the honors.”
“What?” Pete shot back. I don’ come to no classy joint and pay these kinda prices ta serve myself. Besides, ol’ Blackhood here looks like he enjoys his work, so who am I ta spoil his fun?”
Never. Never could anyone have imagined this. Even the most ravenous flesh eaters were certain to break before it came to this.
Staff pleaded silently with one another for ideas, support and guidance. But the spectacle had taken on its own life, and Destiny would have her way, regardless. This highest tone five star eatery, conceived as an arrogant and manipulative joke, these horrified patrons, participants all in this ritual of blood sacrifice–and no one could stop Fate’s hand, nor cleanse their own guilt in calling it forth.
Plainly, piglet was to be made into pork before our very eyes.
Mikki drew a napkin to her mouth and, sobbing, ran for the door. That did it. Patrons stampeded the front door. Pete jumped up from his seat. “Who opened the pigeon coop?” he sputtered, dejectedly. “Oh well…, fuggit. Like I always say, son, if at first you don’t succeed–give it a rest.”
I sat in my chair as if nailed to it, wanting out in the worst way, but I couldn’t budge. The executioner reached for our cute little defenseless porcine. He placed its squealing, squirming head betwixt wooden locks beneath an immaculately shining blade.
My feet involuntarily lunged into the parquet, knocking me backwards unto the floor. I scrambled up and raced after Mikki to the door.
***********
We spoke not a word, uttered not one syllable between us. Mikki and I were waiting impatiently out in the car, fidgeting and wringing our hands, waiting for Pete to leave the restaurant.
An hour later and Pete saunters out, pith helmet cocked rogueishly to one side, he grinning wide, winking and patting his fat tummy through his safari jacket.
“Goddamned butcher, he gets down on all fours, pleadin’ wid me ta save the life of his ‘poor innocent pig’. I said ta hell wid that, here I’m starvin’ an’ that pig’s what I ordered. I couldn’t figure it out. Then it dawned on me.’ Pete pointed to his ear. ‘These guys are a bunch of religious nuts. That’s why they wanted me ta off the pig.
‘So I tell ‘em, okay, fine, I’ll do it. I’ll do the honors. An’ I proceed ta ask ‘em how the damn thing works. So then they start breakin’ down, cryin’ and pleadin’, throwin’ their hands up in the air and everything. They’re offerin’ me all kinds of stuff–dinner on the house, free drinks–anything, if I just spare the life of my succulent roast. O’ course, I know they was just readin’ from their bible, so I says, lookit, fine, ya don’ wanna gimme pork, I’m a reasonable guy. Hows ’bout a nice thick juicy steak?’
‘Man, were they relieved. They bought three gross of business cards, a box of flyswatters and two dozen packs of my Pete Bingo personally photographed playin’ cards. Free chow, good sales–and the steak wasn’t bad.
‘They said they had to run to the store to get it.
‘Mahdoewn, what a bunch of goofballs!”
***********
——-excerpted from the novel Pete & Dick Go Off
copyright p. joseph potocki